euskalkultura.eus

By Ingrid K. Williams. The identity of San Sebastián as a seaside resort began over a century ago, when this wild stretch of Atlantic coast was favored by Spanish royals on holiday. Since then, Donostia — as the alluring city is known in Basque — has also established itself as a world-class gastro-paradise. And now, as a 2016 European Capital of Culture, the city has begun to again reinvent itself, this time as a cultural destination. So when fall’s cooler temperatures force all but the hardiest surfers to abandon the beaches, you’ll still find myriad enticements to feast on — from fine art and architecture to local design and craft beer — before the pintxo bars beckon.

Friday

1. ARCHITECTURE TOUR, 4 P.M.

Filigreed balconies and Belle Époque sandstone edifices lend the city its classical elegance, but fans of contemporary architecture can also seek out three works by Rafael Moneo, the Pritzker Prize-winning architect from nearby Navarra. Start a tour by admiring the Kursaal, his futuristic pair of cubelike glass structures overlooking Zurriola beach. Next, head a block south to Edificio Urumea, an apartment building distinguished by an undulating beige-and-brown facade facing the Urumea River. Follow the river for about a mile to find Mr. Moneo’s most recent contribution in town, the boxy white Iglesia de Iesu. Completed in 2011, this austere structure gives little hint of its religious affiliation aside from the cross formed from negative space near the top.

2. BEER HOUSE RULES, 6:30 P.M.

Naturally fermented ciders have long enjoyed favor in this region of Spain, but some young Basque microbreweries are starting to produce craft beers that could sway local preferences. For a taste, visit Mala Gissona Beer House, a brewpub that opened last winter with a dozen taps pouring artisanal brews. Ask for a zurito (small pour) of their amber-hued Apatxe Pale Ale, brewed in nearby Oiartzun, or the hoppy Amuitz lager fromBidassoa Basque Brewery, another area newcomer.

3. RACIÓN RATIONALE, 9 P.M.

The cardinal rule of pintxo-bar dining is to never stop moving. But an exception may be made for one stellar bar’s raciones, larger plates to be shared. Far from the throngs clogging the Parte Vieja, Antonio Bar is a locals’ favorite where plates of tantalizing seafood — octopus, anchovies, sardines, salmon — occupy the bar, ready to be scooped atop pieces of freshly toasted bread. But the best order here is the ración of carpaccio de atún rojo, a platter draped with paper-thin slices of glistening tuna and sprinkled with slivers of red-and-green guindilla peppers (15 euros, or about $16.60). A close runner-up is the hongos, foie y yema ración — a decadent umami-rich mix of sautéed mushrooms, seared foie gras and egg yolk (€22).

4. DABADABA DO, MIDNIGHT

Leave the beach clubs to the packs of teenagers guzzling contraband booze out of soda bottles and instead delve into the Donostia music scene atDabadaba, a basement-level clubhouse that has been hosting a party more or less nonstop since opening in 2014. Show up at this cavernous hangout by day and you might find a Spanish folk duo or a laid-back jazz session, whereas after dark the dance floor fills during performances by various artists and D.J.s — an Australian punk band one night, an American all-girl surf-pop group the next.

Saturday

5. BEST BREAKFAST, 9:30 A.M.

A serviceable cortado can be procured at any cafe in town, but for a proper espresso — or Chemex, or cold brew — go to Sakona Coffee Roasters. This third-wave coffee shop opened in February in an airy, uncluttered space with sleek wood benches, beans from their roastery in nearby Irun, and a worth-the-wait pour-over served in small glass carafes tied with tiny handkerchiefs (€3). Afterward, march to Bar Zabaleta. Like everyone else at this no-frills pintxo bar, you’re here for one reason: the tortilla. This superlative rendition of the traditional potato-and-onion omelet has an oozy consistency and sunny orange hue reminiscent of soft-boiled farm eggs (€1.80).

6. DESIGN TIME, 11:30 A.M.

After breakfast, spend some time shopping in Gros, a pretty neighborhood of tree-lined plazas, playgrounds and new stores stocked with creative local goods. Start at Le Carburateur, a small shop and gallery with roots across the border in French Basque Country that opened in December selling cheeky art prints with colorful Donostia-themed designs. Then head to Belgrado, a new multifaceted cafe with specialized retail areas — wine store, cheesemonger and gallery among them — and picture windows framing ocean views. Visit the boutique area for clothing from the local label Letitare and artistic cityscape illustrations from Koloreka, a three-year-old print shop headquartered across town...

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