Francesca Lee. The interior has been thought out in minute detail to mirror the ideals of its parent. The red and gold wave-like ceiling that the restaurant is known for has been specially created using 7,000 glass test tubes, each filled with spices pay homage to the fabled ‘cabinet’ that feeds the culinary laboratory at Arzak.
The design embodies the philosophy of the restaurant – precise, yet with an air of informality and playfulness.
This extends seamlessly into the dining experience – relaxed, yet well thought out, often with an element of surprise – a top-of-the class example of the school of New Basque Cuisine. The five-course tasting menu provides variety, fun and an education.
The appetisers alone give the typical ‘let’s be quirky and serve this on a wooden chopping board or slate’ idea a run for its money. Savoury lollipops, ham rolled into test tubes, and beer-soaked mango and black pudding are served on a crushed can of the local Basque brew. “The chef got a bit angry,” I’m told.
While each course is artfully complemented by local Spanish wines, the dishes all have a culinary twist. The so-called ‘Monkfish Confetti’, for example, is an exquisitely cooked piece of fish that the waiter showers in an emulsion of oil and different colours of dried peppercorn. The ‘Celery Illusion’ accompanies the sea bass dish and is another trick up Ametsa’s sleeve and, although I know the secret, there are no spoilers for future diners here.
It feels a disservice not to go into depth about the delights of each part of the meal; however, the amount that is served over what is a leisurely four-hour dinner renders it impossible to do each one justice. Stand-out highlights include the beef fillet served with what looks like a green tomato but is actually avocado, the ominously-named Trufón: meaning “big truffle” in Spanish; this chocoholic’s dream also has more to it than meets the eye and would even impress Heston Blumenthal.
Overall, the experience is a masterclass in culinary art – a lesson that I won’t forget anytime soon.
Ametsa, The Halkin Hotel, 5-6 Halkin Street, SW1X, 020 7333 1234
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