euskalkultura.eus

Aspire9967. Since emigrating here in the mid 1800’s from the mountainous region bordering Spain and France, the Basque have become an indelible part of our communities. First as participants in the Gold Rush then, later when the claims disappeared more as shepherds and ranchers. In winter as they retreated with their flocks from the mountains, local boarding houses would help support these hardworking men offering them food, familiarity, and a sense of family. 

Through music, dance, and language but most of all through food, the Basque heritage is still celebrated here with passion. A passion for people, for music, for life. There is an old Basque proverb which says, “We are… because we were” and this is in full view as they come together family style, in the ancient tradition, joining at common tables to gather, to eat, to talk… to remember. Local places such as Louis’ Basque Corner, The Fe, J.T. Basque and The Martin have served for decades to introduce this fiercely proud culture to Nevadans and visitors alike. From Reno, down to Gardnerville, past the sage and juniper to Winnemucca and out to Elko, traditions are kept alive by these prominent and nostalgic former boardinghouses turned restaurants and social clubs, steadfast pieces of a still vibrant collective.

“Ongi Etorri’ in the Basque language means “welcome” and these indeed are welcoming places to connect, share a drink, a meal and a fun experience. Or as John Arant, owner of The Martin in Winnemucca says, “They are a cornerstone of culture here”. Generations returning time and again for the sense of place, for the feeling of home. 

Time largely falls away as diners and new friends alike bond over traditional fare at The Martin and “On egin!” (Enjoy your meal) is offered with sincerity as the bread baskets overflow, and wineglasses are constantly filled. Course after course of soups, salads, beans, and french fries in heaping portions are brought for the table, backed up by sizzling entrées from the local ranches featuring charcoal grilled steaks, lamb and classic preparations of Solomo (pork lion), sweetbreads and tongue. Garlic is seemingly its own food group here. The long tables and warm atmosphere helping to immerse diners in the Basque culture and tradition. Singing should be expected and no one leaves The Martin hungry.

However, some nods to modern dining have indeed crept into this traditional mindset. In Downtown Reno a new iteration of the venerable Santa Fe Hotel dining room has recently reopened. Now called simply “The Fe”, this more modern take largely dispenses with the family style, multi course meals in favor of a small plate approach. According to co-owner Gavin Sarratea, the small plates called Pintxos (pronounced: pinchos) are “a better fit for how people choose to eat now and allow for a more authentic Basque experience”, these mirroring how meals are offered back in Spain. Small bites, the most delicious Picons in the area, free flowing wine, and lively chats. This too is definitely the Basque way. And the food? Amazing. Two beautifully crispy croquetas placed atop a vibrant tomato sauce topped by curls of dry Jack, a dish reminiscent of an Italian crocchette but native to the Basque region of Navarra. A beautifully presented plate featuring three different and equally delicious small bread-based bites, including a sublime Serrano ham with cheese and pimento as well as an incredible chorizo, Manchego and pickled garlic set. Gavin’s family is the source for many of the recipes and they are brilliant. Asked about what makes this food so special, he replies that his dad taught him much of what he knows and that as a first-generation Basque-American, “It’s important to honor my family and our traditions”.

Open since 1946 and always in the care of the Lekumberry family, I’m here to talk with Marie Louise about the history of J.T. Basque and the parts of the culture that are still celebrated there today. Over a delicious chorizo burger (locally sourced and thoroughly delicious), fries that seemingly fell from heaven and a “side” salad large enough to feed a family of four, I asked about the history of her restaurant and what makes it such a special place to so many.  She replies very simply, “The spirit, It’s in the walls” and as you look around the bar at the various clippings, vintage local event posters and 4H awards, you can see and feel it too. But one also can’t help but notice the hats. Cowboy hats, trucker caps, military berets all hung neatly in rows. Many, if not all with names inscribed on them… Sarman, Borda, Settlemayer. Names, families, histories from the surrounding ranches and town, names that are as much a part of these places as the proprietors. Generations of Nevadans who’ve added to the unique patina of these places with their love for community, for these meals, for the shared sense of place they offer. Mary Louise notes that generations of these families now come back, often together to share in the experience. “I’m now serving families that came here as children many years ago”. Asked what that means to her, she becomes wistful. “It means we are making people happy and keeping the spirit alive”. For her and many like her this has special meaning. “We are because we were”, the Basque ethos come to life.

As Reno and its environs continue to grow and change, Basque houses like these continue to offer a unique and mouthwatering way to keep our region rooted to its history. No need to travel to Spain when such warm and welcoming opportunities to experience delicious food, drink and a warm “Kaixo” (welcome) exist at our own doorstep.

Visit one soon, order a Picon Punch and offer a toast to 150 years of local history. 

Topa!